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“Those hoods!” she said–“WE CALL THOSE HOODS UGLIES! Captain Hicks.”

Oh, how pretty she looked as she said it! The blue eyes looked up under the blue hood, so archly and gayly; ever so many dimples began playing about her face; her little voice rang so fresh and sweet, that a heart which has never loved a tree or flower but the vegetable in question was sure to perish–a heart worn down and sickened by repeated disappointment, mockery, faithlessness–a heart whereof despair is an accustomed tenant, and in whose desolate and lonely depths dwells an abiding gloom, began to throb once more–began to beckon Hope from the window–began to admit sunshine–began to–O Folly, Folly! O Fanny! O Miss K., how lovely you looked as you said, “We call those hoods Uglies!” Ugly indeed!

This is a chronicle of feelings and characters, not of events and places, so much. All this time our vessel was making rapid way up the river, and we saw before us the slim towers of the noble cathedral of Antwerp soaring in the rosy sunshine. Lankin and I had agreed to go to the “Grand Laboureur,” or the Place de Meir. They give you a particular kind of jam-tarts there–called Nun’s tarts, I think–that I remember, these twenty years, as the very best tarts–as good as the tarts which we ate when we were boys. The “Laboureur” is a dear old quiet comfortable hotel; and there is no man in England who likes a good dinner better than Lankin.

“What hotel do you go to?” I asked of Lady Kicklebury.

“We go to the ‘Saint Antoine’ of course. Everybody goes to the ‘Saint Antoine,'” her ladyship said. “We propose to rest here; to do the Rubens’s; and to proceed to Cologne to-morrow. Horace, call Finch and Bowman; and your courier, if he will have the condescension to wait upon ME, will perhaps look to the baggage.”

“I think, Lankin,” said I, “as everybody seems going to the ‘Saint Antoine,’ we may as well go, and not spoil the party.”

“I think I’ll go too,” says Hicks; as if HE belonged to the party.

And oh, it was a great sight when we landed, and at every place at which we paused afterwards, to see Hirsch over the Kicklebury baggage, and hear his polyglot maledictions at the porters! If a man sometimes feels sad and lonely at his bachelor condition, if SOME feelings of envy pervade his heart, at seeing beauty on another’s arm, and kind eyes directed towards a happier mug than his own–at least there are some consolations in travelling, when a fellow has but one little portmanteau or bag which he can easily shoulder, and thinks of the innumerable bags and trunks which the married man and the father drags after him. The married Briton on a tour is but a luggage overseer: his luggage is his morning thought, and his nightly terror. When he floats along the Rhine he has one eye on a ruin, and the other on his luggage. When he is in the railroad he is always thinking, or ordered by his wife to think, “is the luggage safe?” It clings round him. It never leaves him (except when it DOES leave him, as a trunk or two will, and make him doubly miserable). His carpet-bags lie on his chest at night, and his wife’s forgotten bandbox haunts his turbid dreams.

I think it was after she found that Lady Kicklebury proposed to go to the “Grand Saint Antoine” that Lady Knightsbridge put herself with her maid into a carriage and went to the other inn. We saw her at the cathedral, where she kept aloof from our party. Milliken went up the tower, and so did Miss Fanny. I am too old a traveller to mount up those immeasurable stairs, for the purpose of making myself dizzy by gazing upon a vast map of low countries stretched beneath me, and waited with Mrs. Milliken and her mother below.