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“Them two, sor,” volunteers Fin, as we pass them lying under the willows near my morning subject, “is as chuck-full of happiness as a hive’s full of bees. They was out in their boat yisterday, sor, in all that pour, and it rolled off ’em same as a duck sheds water, and they laughin’ so ye’d think they’d split. What’s dresses to them, sor, and her father? Why, sor, he could buy and sell half Sonnin’. He’s jist home from Africa that chap is–or he was the week he was married–wid more lead inside him than would sink a corpse. You kin see for yerself that he’s made for fightin’. Look at the eye on him!”

Then there is the solitary Englishman, who breakfasts by himself, and has the morning paper laid beside his plate the moment the post-cart arrives. Fin and I find him half the time on a bench in a cool place on the path to the Lock, his nose in his book, his tightly furled umbrella by his side. No dogs nor punts nor spins up the river for him. He is taking his holiday and doesn’t want to be meddled with or spoken to.

There are, too, the customary maiden sisters–the unattended and forlorn–up for a week; and the young fellow down from London, all flannels and fishing-rods–three or four of them in fact, who sit round in front of the little sliding wicket facing the row of bottles and pump-handles–divining-rods for the beer below, these pump-handles–chaffing the barmaids and getting as good as they send; and always, at night, one or more of the country gentry in for their papers, and who can be found in the cosey hall discussing the crops, the coming regatta, the chance of Leander’s winning the race, or the latest reports of yesterday’s cricket-match.

Now and then the village doctor or miller–quite an important man is the miller–you would think so if you could see the mill–drops in, draws up a chair, and ventures an opinion on the price of wheat in the States or the coal strike or some kindred topic, the coming country fair, or perhaps the sermon of the previous Sunday.

“I hope you ‘eard our Vicar, sir–No? Sorry you didn’t, sir. I tell yer ‘e’s a nailer.”

And so much for the company at the White Hart Inn.

II

You perhaps think that you know the Thames. You have been at Henley, no doubt, during regatta week, when both banks were flower-beds of blossoming parasols and full-blown picture-hats, the river a stretch of silver, crowded with boats, their occupants cheering like mad. Or you know Marlowe with its wide stream bordered with stately trees and statelier mansions, and Oxford with its grim buildings, and Windsor dominated by its huge pile of stone, the flag of the Empires floating from its top; and Maidenhead with its boats and launches, and lovely Cookham with its back water and quaint mill and quainter lock. You have rowed down beside them all in a shell, or have had glimpses of them from the train, or sat under the awnings of the launch or regular packet and watched the procession go by. All very charming and interesting, and, if you had but forty-eight hours in which to see all England, a profitable way of spending eight of them. And yet you have only skimmed the beautiful river’s surface as a swallow skims a lake.

Try a punt once.

Pole in and out of the little back waters, lying away from the river, smothered in trees; float over the shallows dotted with pond-lilies; creep under drooping branches swaying with the current; stop at any one of a hundred landings, draw your boat up on the gravel, spring out and plunge into the thickets, flushing the blackbirds from their nests, or unpack your luncheon, spread your mattress, and watch the clouds sail over your head. Don’t be in a hurry. Keep up this idling day in and day out, up and down, over and across, for a month or more, and you will get some faint idea of how picturesque, how lovely, and how restful this rarest of all the sylvan streams of England can be.