FullReads

“Following, at first, the instructions of Herr Baedeker, we travelled and climbed, chattering and singing as we went, in the direction of the Montenvert, whence we were to descend upon the Mer de Glace, and enjoy the spectacle of a stupendous glacier.

“‘And that, I am convinced,’ said Fidele, ‘is nothing more nor less than one of those many windows that give light to the monsters of the under-earth.’

“‘Little imbecile! In some places this window is six hundred feet thick.’

“‘So?’ she said. ‘That is because their dim eyes could not endure the full light of the sun.’

“We had brought a tin box of sandwiches with us; and this, with my large pewter flask full of wine, was slung upon my back. For we had been told the Hotel du Montenvert was yet closed; and, sure enough when we reached it, the building stood black in a pool of snow, its shuttered windows forlorn, and long icicles hung from the eaves.

“The depression induced by this sight was momentary. We turned from it to the panorama of majestic loveliness that stretched below and around us. The glacier–that rolling sea of glass–descended from the enormous gates of the hills. Its source was the white furnace of the skies; its substance the crystal refuse of the stars; and from its margins the splintered peaks stood up in a thousand forms of beauty. Right and left, in the hollows of the mountains, the mist lay like ponds, opal and translucent; and the shafts of the pine trees standing in it looked like the reflections of themselves.

“It made the eyes ache–this silence of greatness; and it became a relief to shift one’s gaze to the reality of one’s near neighbourhood–the grass, and the rhododendron bushes, and even the dull walls of the deserted auberge.

“A narrow path dipped over the hill-side and fled into the very jaws of the moraine. Down the first of this path we raced, hand in hand; but soon, finding the impetus overmastering us, we pulled up with difficulty, and descended the rest of the way circumspectly.

“At the foot of the steep slope we came upon the little wooden hutch where, ordinarily, one may procure a guide (also rough socks to stretch over one’s boots) for the passage of the glacier. Now, however, the shed was closed and tenantless; and we must e’en dispense with a conductor, should we adventure further.

“Herr Baedeker says, ‘Guide unnecessary for the experienced.’

“‘Fidele, are we experienced?’

“‘We shall be, mon ami, when we have crossed. A guide could not alter that.’

“‘But it is true, ma petite. Come, then!’

“We clambered down amongst huge stones. Fidele’s little feet went in and out of the crannies like sand-martins. Suddenly, before we realized it, we were on the glacier.

“Fidele exclaimed.

“‘ Mon Dieu ! Is this ice–these blocks of dirty alabaster?’

“Alas! she was justified. This torrent of majestic crystal–seen from above so smooth and bountiful–a flood of the milk of Nature dispensed from the white bosom of the hills! Now, near at hand, what do we find it? A medley of opaque blocks, smeared with grit and rubbish; a vast ruin of avalanches hurled together and consolidated, and of the colour of rock salt.

“‘ Peste!‘ I cried. ‘We must get to the opposite bank, for all that.

” Mignonne, allons voir si la rose,

Qui ce matin avoit desclose….'”

“We clasped hands and set forth on our little traversee, our landmark an odd-shaped needle of spar on the further side. My faith! it was simple. The paveurs of Nature had left the road a trifle rough, that was all. Suddenly we came upon a wide fissure stretched obliquely like the mouth of a sole. Going glibly, we learnt a small lesson of caution therefrom. Six paces, and we should have tumbled in.