PAGE 5
Music And Cooking
by
If some singers are good cooks it does not follow that all good cooks are singers. Benjamin Lumley, in his “Reminiscences of the Opera,” tells the sad story of the Countess of Cannazaro’s cook, which should serve as a lesson to housemaids who are desirous of becoming moving picture stars. “This worthy man, excellent no doubt as a chef, took it into his head that he was a vocalist of the highest order, and that he only wanted opportunity to earn musical distinction. His strange fancy came to the knowledge of Rubini, and it was arranged that a performance should take place in the morning, in which the cook’s talent should be fairly tested. Certainly every chance was afforded him. Not only was he encouraged by Rubini and Lablache (whose gravity on the occasion was wonderful), but by a few others, Costa included, as instrumentalists. The failure was miserable, ridiculous, as everybody expected.” Frederick Crowest describes a certain Count Castel de Maria who had a spit that played tunes, “and so regulated and indicated the condition of whatever was hung upon it to roast. By a singular mechanical contrivance this wonderful spit would strike up an appropriate tune whenever a joint had hung sufficiently long on its particular roast. Thus, Oh! the roast beef of Old England, when a sirloin had turned and hung its appointed time. At another air, a leg of mutton, a l’Anglaise would be found excellent; while some other tune would indicate that a fowl a la Flamande was cooked to a nicety and needed removal from the fowl roast.”
To Crowest, too, I am indebted for a list of beverages and eatables which certain singers held in superstitious awe as capable of refreshing their voices. Formes swore by a pot of good porter and Wachtel is said to have trusted to the yolk of an egg beaten up with sugar to make sure of his high Cs. The Swedish tenor, Labatt, declared that two salted cucumbers gave the voice the true metallic ring. Walter drank cold black coffee during a performance; Southeim took snuff and cold lemonade; Steger, beer; Niemann, champagne, slightly warmed, (Huneker once saw Niemann drinking cocktails from a beer glass; he sang Siegmund at the opera the next night); Tichatschek, mulled claret; Rubgam drank mead; Nachbaur ate bonbons; Arabanek believed in Gampoldskirchner wine. Mlle. Brann-Brini took beer and cafe au lait, but she also firmly believed in champagne and would never dare venture the great duet in the fourth act of Les Huguenots without a bottle of Moet Cremant Rose. Giardini being asked his opinion of Banti, previous to her arrival in England, said: “She is the first singer in Italy and drinks a bottle of wine every day.” Malibran believed in the efficacy of porter. She made her last appearances in opera in Balfe’s Maid of Artois during the fall of 1836 in London. On the first night she was in anything but good physical condition and the author of “Musical Recollections of the Last Half-Century” tells how she pulled herself through: “She remembered that an immense trial awaited her in the finale of the third act; and finding her strength giving way, she sent for Mr. Balfe and Mr. Bunn, and told them that unless they did as they were bid, after all the previous success, the end might result in failure; but she said, ‘Manage to let me have a pot of porter somehow or other before I have to sing, and I will get you an encore which will bring down the house.’ How to manage this was difficult; for the scene was so set that it seemed scarcely possible to hand her up ‘the pewter’ without its being witnessed by the audience. After much consultation, Malibran having been assured that her wish should be fulfilled, it was arranged that the pot of porter should be handed up to her through a trap in the stage at the moment when Jules had thrown himself on her body, supposing that life had fled; and Mr. Templeton was drilled into the manner in which he should so manage to conceal the necessary arrangement, that the audience would never suspect what was going on. At the right moment a friendly hand put the foaming pewter through the stage, to be swallowed at a draught, and success was won!… Malibran, however, had not overestimated her own strength. She knew that it wanted but this fillip to carry her through. She had resolved to have an encore, and she had it, in such a fashion as made the roof of ‘Old Drury’ ring as it had never rung before. On the repetition of the opera and afterwards, a different arrangement of the stage was made, and a property calabash containing a pot of porter was used; but although the same result was constantly won, Malibran always said it was not half so ‘nice,’ nor did her anything like the good it would have done if she could only have had it out of the pewter.” Clara Louise Kellogg in her very lively “Memoirs” publishes a similar tale of another singer: “It was told of Grisi that when she was growing old and severe exertion told on her she always, after her fall as Lucrezia Borgia, drank a glass of beer sent up to her through the floor, lying with her back half turned to the audience.” Miss Kellogg complains of the breaths of the tenors she sang with: “Stigelli usually exhaled an aroma of lager beer; while the good Mazzoleni invariably ate from one to two pounds of cheese the day he was to sing. He said it strengthened his voice. Many of them affected garlic.” It is necessary, of course, that a singer should know what foods agree with him. He must keep himself in excellent physical condition: small wonder that many artists are superstitious in this regard.