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Dress, Or Who Makes The Fashions
by
“The question where fashions come from is like the question where pins go to,” said Pheasant. “Think of the thousands and millions of pins that are being used every year, and not one of them worn out. Where do they all go to? One would expect to find a pin mine somewhere.”
“Victor Hugo says they go into the sewers in Paris,” said Jenny.
“And the fashions come from a source about as pure,” said I, from the next room.
“Bless me, Jenny, do tell us if your father has been listening to us all this time!” was the next exclamation; and forthwith there was a whir and rustle of the silken wings, as the whole troop fluttered into my study.
“Now, Mr. Crowfield, you are too bad!” said Humming-Bird, as she perched upon a corner of my study-table, and put her little feet upon an old “Froissart” which filled the armchair.
“To be listening to our nonsense!” said Pheasant.
“Lying in wait for us!” said Dove.
“Well, now, you have brought us all down on you,” said Humming-Bird, “and you won’t find it so easy to be rid of us. You will have to answer all our questions.”
“My dears, I am at your service, as far as mortal man may be,” said I.
“Well, then,” said Humming-Bird, “tell us all about everything,–how things come to be as they are. Who makes the fashions?”
“I believe it is universally admitted that, in the matter of feminine toilet, France rules the world,” said I.
“But who rules France?” said Pheasant. “Who decides what the fashions shall be there?”
“It is the great misfortune of the civilized world, at the present hour,” said I, “that the state of morals in France is apparently at the very lowest ebb, and consequently the leadership of fashion is entirely in the hands of a class of women who could not be admitted into good society, in any country. Women who can never have the name of wife,–who know none of the ties of family,–these are the dictators whose dress and equipage and appointments give the law, first to France, and through France to the civilized world. Such was the confession of Monsieur Dupin, made in a late speech before the French Senate, and acknowledged, with murmurs of assent on all sides, to be the truth. This is the reason why the fashions have such an utter disregard of all those laws of prudence and economy which regulate the expenditures of families. They are made by women whose sole and only hold on life is personal attractiveness, and with whom to keep this up, at any cost, is a desperate necessity. No moral quality, no association of purity, truth, modesty, self-denial, or family love, comes in to hallow the atmosphere about them, and create a sphere of loveliness which brightens as mere physical beauty fades. The ravages of time and dissipation must be made up by an unceasing study of the arts of the toilet. Artists of all sorts, moving in their train, rack all the stores of ancient and modern art for the picturesque, the dazzling, the grotesque; and so, lest these Circes of society should carry all before them, and enchant every husband, brother, and lover, the staid and lawful Penelopes leave the hearth and home to follow in their triumphal march and imitate their arts. Thus it goes in France; and in England, virtuous and domestic princesses and peeresses must take obediently what has been decreed by their rulers in the demi-monde of France; and we in America have leaders of fashion, who make it their pride and glory to turn New York into Paris, and to keep even step with everything that is going on there. So the whole world of womankind is marching under the command of those leaders. The love of dress and glitter and fashion is getting to be a morbid, unhealthy epidemic, which really eats away the nobleness and purity of women.